Now for our third journey:
Exit Waterloo bridge from the north west, go down the stairs, turn right onto Victoria Embankment, and after 14 min (0.7 mile) our destination will be on the left:
3.1 Tattershall Castle, Victoria embankment, Whitehall, London SW1A 2HR
A former passenger ferry with pub food and drinks, moored on the Thames with views of the London Eye. Regular entertainment including live Jazz every first Wednesday of the month. Usually crowded and very touristy, don’t expect to meet any local Westminster residents on board!
11 min (0.6 mile) to the next one, walk south on Victoria Embankment then take a detour past the Palace of Westminster. Sir Charles Barry’s scaffolded and crumbling Gothic pile is a perfect metaphor for the current state of British democracy, it reminds me of one of the slogans from the 1968 Paris uprising:
“Pas de replâtrage, la structure est pourrie.” (No replastering, the structure is rotten.)
It contains at least nine bars, but you need to be accompanied by a passholder to get served. If you can’t blag your way into a bar, just book a table in the restaurant which is open to the public on a reservations only basis:
http://www.parliament.uk/dining
Continue south on Abingdon St then onto Millbank, and our destination will be on the right:
3.2 The Morpeth Arms, 58 Millbank, Westminster, London SW1P 4RW
Built in 1845 to refresh prison warders from the adjacent Millbank Penitentiary, this roomy and comfortable Grade II listed pub is festooned with etched and cut glass mirrors, paintings, prints and old photographs. It faces the Thames with views of the MI6 headquarters from an upstairs room themed on Mata Hari, the 1920s secret agent and exotic dancer. Beneath the pub is a corridor of holding cells rumoured to be haunted. Prisoners were kept here whilst waiting to board convict ships to Australia – The term POM refers to Prisoner of Millbank! This is my favorite pub in Pimlico with friendly staff, good draft beer and excellent food. It has a good locals atmosphere, with not too many tourists. Dogs are allowed downstairs, I’ve taken mine on several occasions!
Just 5 min (0.2 mile) to the next one, walk south-west on Millbank and our destination will be on the right:
3.3 The Grosvenor, 79 Grosvenor Rd, Pimlico, London SW1V 3LA
Located above the culverted Tyburn River, the present pub dates from the 1920s and offers a relaxed atmosphere, with well-kept ales, reasonably priced pub food including good Thai curries, and friendly staff. There are tables out the front and a secluded beer garden behind. A large whisky mirror declares its former name, the Spread Eagle. They have pianos and live Jazz on Thursdays including performances from Chelsea art college students. The tourists might not have found it, but the local folk have a decent boozer to hand!
Please note that the King William IV at 110-111 Grosvenor Road closed towards the end of 2017, maybe to reopen in early 2019. An application to change the use to A1 / A2 (retail / office) was refused by Westminster Council. The pub dates from the 1850s and was rebuilt in 1880; it has kept its striking Victorian green tiled exterior but sadly there are no original features inside.
There is something of a beer desert ahead of us, the next five and a half miles of prime Chelsea / Fulham river frontage contains only one pub (modern). This highlights how London has turned its back on its river. This area should be alive with boardwalks, piers, floating bars, pop up street food stalls etc. Clearly the rich burghers of Chelsea don’t want beer drinkers spoiling their river views, but it’s not their river, its ours and its high time we reclaimed it!
It’s a pleasant walk, but if you’re only here for the beer, double back to Pimlico tube, change at Victoria, get off at Hammersmith and we’ll catch you up in the Crabtree, otherwise, follow me! It’s, 48 min (2.4 miles) so let’s start yomping, west on Grosvenor Rd, onto Cheyne Walk, but do stop to admire Albert Bridge on your left, at night it’s illuminated by 4,000 bulbs (replaced by LEDs in 2010 /11), making it the most striking landmark in the area:
and Crosby Hall on your right. Built in 1466, it originally stood in Bishopsgate, in the City of London, but was moved to its present site in 1910:
Now turn left onto Lots Rd, passing the 606 Jazz Club on your right and the Lots Road (Chelsea) Power Station on your left. Built end-on to the Thames, on the north bank of the tidal Chelsea Creek, construction started in 1902 and it became operational in February 1905. At the time it was the largest power station ever built, and powered most of the trams and the London Underground.
It is currently being redeveloped into the new Chelsea Waterfront:
As we cross Chelsea Creek onto Chelsea Harbour Dr, we leave Chelsea and enter Fulham, then right onto Harbour Ave, right onto Thames Path, and our destination is on the left:
3.4 The Waterside, The Boulevard, Imperial Wharf, London SW6 2SU
A modern Youngs pub in the Imperial Wharf development dating from 2009, the Waterside commands an enviable position on the bank of the river for you to kick back, relax and enjoy! Unfortunately the view across the river is spoilt by the appalling architecture on the other side – this topic will be explored in detail in my next post!
It’s an even longer walk to our next pub, 1 h 3 min (3.2 miles), just follow the Thames Path, the large concrete jetty in the river on your left and the Fulham Big Yellow Self Storage warehouse on your right across William Morris Way are all that remains of Fulham Power Station. Built in 1901, it had four chimneys like Battersea, but they were inline. It was unloved by the public and incompetently demolished in 1983, the Health and Safety Executive ordered work to stop when asbestos levels in the air exceeded safe limits.
The Thames Path stops just before Wandsworth Bridge and your phone sat nav will take you away from the river so follow Broomhouse Lane, past the Hurlingham Club, past Putney Bridge, Fulham Palace, Bishops Park and Craven Cottage, keeping to the Thames Path as much as possible, until you reach our destination on the left:
3.5 The Crabtree, Rainville Rd, London W6 9HA
A posh Victorian boozer with a country feel in its tree-filled riverside garden
situated on a quiet and picturesque stretch of the Thames.
The seats under the weeping willow deserve a special mention:
A relaxed lounge bar housed beneath a huge high-vaulted ceiling with beautiful views of the river framed by weighty wooden tables, paintings, and old photos of pre-war Fulham. There is a restaurant bathed in white linen at the rear. The Crabtree has an open, friendly feel that makes everyone feel welcome.
Just, 8 min (0.4 mile) to the next, walk north on Rainville Rd, turn left onto Thames Path, our destination will be on the right:
3.6 The Blue Boat, Distillery Wharf, Parr’s Way, London W6 9GD
Airy, modern riverside Fuller’s pub opened in March 2015 with a large terrace area and outside seating to catch stunning sunsets from the spacious patio next to the river.
But there must have been a pub on this site before because I remember the view across the river from here long before 2015.
Inside there is an open-plan kitchen, with dining areas and ample drinking space around a very long zinc bar. Numerous downlighters from a high concrete ceiling illuminate black and oak wood finishes, white tiles, and display cabinets of nautical artefacts. In 2016 the pub was runner-up in the Fuller’s Griffin Trophy Best London pub category.
Capability Brown used to live near here:
As did his girlfriend:
Just 5 min (0.3 mile) to the next pub, follow the Thames Path under Hammersmith Bridge, and our destination will be on the right:
3.7 The Blue Anchor, 13 Lower Mall, London W6 9DJ
A paneled 18th-century inn serving local real ales and offering a warm and sociable atmosphere. There is a collection of artefacts from the First World War. The upstairs ‘River Room’ is a popular venue with great views. The Blue Anchor was first licensed in 1722, when George 1st was King of England and Louis XV was on the Throne of France. Gustav Holst was a frequent visitor, and composed his Hammersmith Suite here.
The next one is next door but one:
3.8 The Rutland Arms, 15 Lower Mall, London W6 9DJ
Established in 1849 and rebuilt in its present form in 1870, it was damaged in the Second World War and lost its top floor and balcony. The Rutland displays an inn sign of two unicorns with the motto, Pour Parvenir (for the wayfarer). It has a smart lounge bar and a dining area at the rear. Rowing sculls are suspended from the ceiling and there is a first-floor balcony bar for functions. Bench seats at the front give a good view of the river. Famous for being in the opening title sequence of the TV series Minder.
Just 4 min (0.2 mile) to the next:
3.9 The Dove, 19 Upper Mall, Hammersmith, London W6 9TA
A Grade II listed public house dating from the early 18th century where Charles II and Nell Gwynne once dined, and James Thompson wrote the words to the 1740 song “Rule Britannia”!
The front bar of the pub is listed in the Guinness book of Records as the smallest public bar in the United Kingdom.
Once the best of the Hammersmith riverside pubs, it reeks of tradition. A quartet of stubby, stocky, brass-trimmed traditional beer hand pumps at the bar hail from another era.
It offers the chance to soak up a sense of history, drink good beer and watch time and the river pass by. I used to come here often in the 1980s, the adjacent parking is unrestricted and the riverside terrace used to be a magnet for practitioners of the ancient English art of standing upright and drinking beer at the same time – who says men can’t multitask? But in the era of the gastropub, they have seen fit to build a conservatory over our sacred terrace:
Is it still the best pub in Hammersmith? It may be sacrilege, but I must admit that I might prefer the Blue Boat!
It is just 6 doors to the next one:
3.10 The Old Ship W6, 25 Upper Mall, Hammersmith, London W6 9TJ
This historic Young’s pub has been providing a great place for Hammersmith’s punters to enjoy a drink by the river ever since 1722. This grand old building is said to resemble a Roman villa and the riverside terrace out the front is a great place to take in the views of the Thames. But unfortunately it was closed for refurbishment when I tried to visit:
However, after months of work, it’s now re-opened its doors as a totally transformed pub, with a focus on cask-conditioned beers, indulgent brunch dishes, full-bodied wines and a seasonal dining menu.
It’s top of my “to do” list the next time I’m in Hammersmith. A Ramrod and Special? It would be a crime not to!
OK, it’s just another 3 min (0.2 mile) to the next:
3.11 The Black Lion, 2 S Black Lion Ln, Hammersmith, London W6 9TJ
Low-ceilinged, traditional pub with mock tudor plastering, tartan upholstery, open fires, and riverside beer garden.
History abounds at this wonderful pub – ghost stories, local history and what ‘The Black Lion’ really meant, made famous in literature and the location of a world famous skittle alley.
A hub of the local community and a warm and welcoming pitstop for tourists and passers by. The Black Lion combines the tradition of a classic English pub with lots of dogs and children adding to the bobo atmosphere – they even had an extended French family when we visited!
As we move on, do stop to visit the Fuller’s brewery; The Griffin Brewery, Chiswick Ln, Chiswick, London W4 2QB. Why not book a tasting tour online?
https://www.fullers.co.uk/brewery
You can have a whale of a time if you visit the brewery:
It’s a long 1 h 7 min (3.4 miles) to our next pub, this is the third long pub free stretch on this journey which is rather tiresome. The Thames path is signposted but it takes you away from the river for long stretches so at times it doesn’t feel like either a pub crawl or a river side walk.
Consolations include some very attractive low rise residential developments as you leave Hammersmith, the peace and solitude as you pass through Dukes Meadows – a huge area of sports fields and rowing clubs, and the rather surreal flocks of parrots which are rather in keeping with the Congo / Mekong sub-themes of this blog:
Just before you reach Kew Railway Bridge,
you’ll find our next pub on the right:
3.12 The Bulls Head, 15 Strand-On-The-Green, Chiswick, London W4 3PQ
The Bulls Head is a Grade II listed 18th century riverside inn once used by riverboat and barge captains to arrange crews and cargoes.
A plaque on the wall of the pub describes how, according to the legend, Oliver Cromwell escaped capture by Royalists through a secret tunnel to the island opposite, called Oliver’s Island. However, no evidence has been found to support the story, and the myth is believed to have grown up in the 17th century.
Then under the railway bridge and it is just, 1 min (92 ft) to our next stop:
3.13 The City Barge, 27 Strand-On-The-Green, Chiswick, London W4 3PH
The City Barge is a historic 14th century public house, known as the Maypole Inn until 1807. The pub was partially destroyed by a bomb during World War II. Internally, the building has retained much of the architectural detail and period fixtures and fittings, including original Victorian panelling and three open fires. A striking reclaimed nineteenth century bar provides a natural focal point for the upper level and some quirky touches including rare bird taxidermy, vintage games, and a metre-long Thames Barge. Scenes from the Beatles’ 1965 film Help! were shot here.
This pub is actually much closer to Oliver’s Island than the previous one, so if Cromwell really did escape from a pub to the island, maybe it was this one?
Just, 4 min (0.2 mile) to the next:
3.14 The Bell & Crown, 11-13 Strand-On-The-Green, Chiswick, London W4 3PL
Licensed as the Bell & Crown by 1787, it was acquired by Fullers in 1814 and rebuilt in 1907. The pub expanded into two adjoining shops in the 1980s, with the large conservatory extension added in 1984. Rumour has it that years ago, a resident ghost used to cause havoc at the bar – turning on the beer pumps in the middle of the night!
The Strand-on-the-Green footpath is undoubtedly the most picturesque stretch of the Thames between Kew and Woolwich. With numerous imposing 18th-century houses, it is like walking onto the set of a Jane Austin film. Whenever you go into a pub you expect to see Keira Knightley taking a break between shoots!
Partially bricked up as a flood prevention measure, this door can’t be more than one meter (three feet) high:
If this was on an eastern stretch of the river the bike would have been nicked long ago!
After 7 min (0.3 mile), the pathway becomes a roadway, note the interesting street lighting on the grade II listed Kew Bridge:
and the brick standpipe water tower of the London Museum of Water and Steam:
then we walk under the south circular road to our final destination:
3.15 One Over the Ait, 8 Kew Bridge Rd, Brentford TW8
A Victorian warehouse converted into a truly striking pub with visual reminders of its industrial past. Stroll through the pillarbox red doors to enter this lively place for classic pub grub and drinks. The pub is set on two floors, with panoramic views as well as terrace seating for up to 200 customers. The lower floor features a round table with a ‘fire-pit’ at its centre. An iron spiral staircase takes you to the top floor with its own smaller bar.
So here we are in Middlesex, now entirely within the wider urbanised area of Greater London. It was established in the Anglo-Saxon era from the territory of the Middle Saxons. Gradually swallowed up by London, it became the second smallest county by area in 1831 and was abolished as an official county in 1965.
“Dear Middlesex, dear vanished country friend, your neighbour, London, killed you in the end.”
John Betjeman (1968)
The Thames meanders south from Kew Bridge, but if you continue due west for five miles you arrive at Heston Services – which turns 50 this year – built on the site of the former Heston Aerodrome where Neville Chamberlain arrived from Munich on 30 September 1938 and made his “peace for our time speech”.
In 2017 Heston was voted the worst motorway service station in the country and you would be forgiven for thinking that this is the worst place in Middlesex, but continue westward for another four miles and you will find somewhere far worse:
Heathrow Airport originated in 1929 as the Great West Aerodrome south-east of the hamlet of Heathrow. Development began in 1944 for military aircraft, but the war ended before completion and it opened as the civilian London Airport in 1946. It has now swallowed up some five square miles (13 square kilometres) of rural Middlesex and has a life of its own, it will soon cross the county border and start encroaching into Berkshire. People protest against it, but this is as futile as protesting against the plague.
Every year some 76 million of us passed through it, understandable if this was escapees, but half that number are arrivals! Imagine the bad impression Heathrow creates in the minds of those 38 million arrivals, the decay and chaos emphasises our status as a post imperial, has been, former power. It must be like rocking up in Rome in 500AD, full of hope and excitement, only to discover that you are a hundred years too late! No self-respecting provincial Chinese city would accept an airport this bad.
The only good idea to pass through Boris’s befuddled brain was to start again and replace it in the east, but please, not on the Isle of Grain where the runways will still run east / west with planes overflying London, put it on Maplin Sands, off Foulness Island in Essex, as originally planned in the 1970s, where the runways can be orientated north / south, so that the planes avoid urban areas!
Not only is Heathrow the worst place in Middlesex, it is the worst place in Britain, but it attracts people like moths to a lamp. It is the closest you will get to hell on earth outside of a war zone. I used to know someone called Helen Bach – she should have worked out of Heathrow as a pilot or stewardess, but apparently she became a beer blogger, so maybe our paths will cross again:
http://www.allwnynews.com/2016/05/helen-bach-beer-is-science.html
Whenever I pass through Heathrow, I am reminded of the classic line from Brighton Rock (1938) by Graham Greene:
“These atheists, they don’t know nothing. Of course, there’s hell, flames and damnation,”
You don’t need faith to know this, just hop onto the Piccadilly Line out to Heathrow and like Doubting Thomas, poke your finger into the gaping side wound and believe…
That’s enough, this blog is getting out of hand already and we are only three quarters of the way through our journey! Come on you lot, back to Waterloo Bridge!
(There is a good service back to Waterloo from Kew Bridge Overground station)
“ The mind of man is capable of anything — because everything is in it, all the past as well as all the future.”
Heart of Darkness
Sunset over the Congo river
“ it must be a temptation to be God. Because there’s a conflict in every human heart, between the rational and irration, between good and evil. And good does not always triumph. Sometimes, the dark side overcomes.”
Apocalypse Now
The mother of all pub crawls 